Historically, the large plain where Nara is situated, is very significant, being the site of the first of Japan’s permanent capitals such as Asuka and Nara itself.

Many of the sites along the Yamamobe-no-michi are associated with
the kojiki, 古事記, “Record of Ancient Matters”, which cover the events (or myths) of the founding of Japan. Written down in the 8th century, the kojiki form the basis for much of the native Shinto religion and are connected with the Imperial Family.

The burial mound of the first Emperor, Jimmu, is near Kashihara-jingu shrine, on the southern edge of the plane, and the area has many more mounds dating from the same period.

The Yamanobe-no-michi goes from Nara itself to Sakurai, at the southern edge of the plain, but most people walk the section from Tenri to either Miwa or Sakurai, which takes about 4-5 hours. The trail itself is mostly paved and flat, running along the edge of the plain rather than in the hills, but occasionally it rises and falls with the contours. No special gear is needed, but with little tree cover a good hat to protect yourself from the sun, and comfortable shoes are important.

To get to the start, take either the JR or private Kintetsu line to Tenri (天理), the headquarters of the Tenri-kyo sect. The many temples and administrative buildings dominate the route from the station east to the start of the walk. From the station itself, you head a long a shotengai (covered shopping street), where you can buy fruit or snacks. Stopping first at Isonokami Jingu Shrine,
mentioned in the Tale of Genji, a classic work from the 11th century, you continue south.

The trail is well signposted, and there are many public toilets, so many you are spoilt for choice! The signs are in Japanese, (山之辺の道) but they are decorated with a distinctive double maple leaf design and it is not hard to follow them by remembering the shape of the Japanese characters.

From Tenri, the trail passes through fields, some small ponds and occassional copses of trees.


At the small settlement of Takenouchi, you can wander between the houses, many with ornate walls and beautiful tiled roofs. The streets are small, yet people still seem to be able to drive their cars into their driveways, often with the help of carefully-placed mirrors.

Further south, the prospect of Miwa noodles beckons. Miwa noodles (三輪素麺) are famous in this area of Nara prefecture, and are a thin noodle made of wheat, and are often served chilled with a dipping sauce.

As you continue south along the trail, you will pass by another small settlement, Otogicho (己木町) with more of the beautiful traditional houses.

Next is Chogaku-ji temple, founded in 824 and containing an image of Amida Buddha.

A little way further are two large burial mounds, one of Emperor Sujin, the 10th Emperor, a giant keyhold-shaped mound surrounded by a moat. It is a little hard to visualise when standing right next to it, as it is so large. The second, of Emperor Keiko, the 12th Emperor and the father of Prince Yamatotakeru. The burial mounds are located here probably because the nearby Mount Miwa was (and still is) venerated for its powerful kami, or spirit.
In the native Shinto religion, mountains were the place where the kami resided, and shrines were the places to worship them. Thus many shrines are located near to mountains.

Omiwa shrine is the last shrine you will visit, and near to the town of Miwa itself. The shintai (body) of the Kami spirit is said to reside in the mountain, so unlike most other shinto shrines, this one does not have a shinden (place for the spirit to be housed). This is a type of mountain worship that was common in early Shinto, when venerated objects were mostly mountains. Omiwa Shrine is often said to be Japan’s first shrine, or at least one of its oldest.

The street from the shrine leads directly west, across the train tracks, and you can find the nearby JR Miwa (三輪) by crossing over, then taking the first left along a narrow street lined with houses and shops, and then left again. Or, if you still have energy, instead of crossing over, keep south (on the east side of the tracks) and in a few kilometres you will enter Sakurai, which is on both the JR and private Kintetsu lines, and is better if you are not heading back to Nara.

The Yamanobe-no-michi is included on our Nakasendo Trail tour, however you can walk this route yourself using our maps and detailed walking instructions if you are on one of our other scheduled or Self-guided walking trips.

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