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Yakushima

admin — Thu, 21 Mar 2013 06:34:33 +0000

Yakushima, off the south of Kyushu, is a sub-tropical island with a wonderful natural environment. Now a UNESCO World Heritage site, has many endemic species, including the yakushika deer, yakuza monkeys, and the famous yakusugi trees. Some the size of houses, these trees are amongst the oldest and largest trees in the world.

The small population of Yakushima live along the coast, with its small area of flat land. The interior of Yakushima is a mountainous and sub-tropical rain forest. Hiking trails take hikers deep into the interior, and many choose to traverse the island by the trail climbing to Miyanoura peak.

In the north of the island are sandy beaches, where sea turtles come to lay their eggs. In the south are natural hot springs that create hot baths in the rocks while waves crash nearby.

With its distinct island flavour, Yakushima is at once Japanese but also but also different. There are some nice accommodations along the coast, including the Manmaru inn nearby Anbo on the east coast, where the hot spring bath overlooks the sea.

Nakasendo video

admin — Thu, 28 Jun 2012 14:22:34 +0000

The second of our new series of videos about our tours and aspects of travelling in Japan is now online. This one is about the Nakasendo Trail.

The Tango Peninsula

admin — Mon, 04 Jun 2012 04:58:00 +0000

The Tango Peninsula juts out into the Japan Sea, in the far north of Kyoto Prefecture. It is known for its delicious crabs, oysters, and yellowtail. It is also know for its distinctive ‘funaya’ fisherman’s houses.

The small villages that now sit at the waters edge were once situated higher up. Boats were stored next to the houses but it was a great effort to bring them up and down, so small shelters were constructed for the boats, and in time these were also used as accommodation for the extended families.

Many of the funaya are located in Ine-cho, a village which is located in a harbour naturally protected from the waves of the Japan Sea. Today, some of the funaya houses are used as accommodation, and it’s a lovely experience to stay in a room over the water.

In the interior of the peninsula, there are more small villages and little development. Around the coast there are stretches of sandy beaches, cliffs and more fishing villages.

Above is a senmaida, terraced rice fields, with the backdrop of the Japan Sea.

Ine-cho is registered as one of the ‘Most Beautiful Villages of Japan’, an NGO which promotes the preservation of villages around the country. It’s about three hours by train or car from Kyoto, yet remains a quiet backwater.

The last cypress hat maker in Japan

admin — Mon, 19 Mar 2012 07:40:03 +0000

On my recent trip to the Kumano region in Wakayam prefecture, I met Yasuo Shiba, the last craftsman in Japan to make hats out of hinoki – Japanese cypress. The hats are worn by mountain ascetics known as Yamabushi, who follow the Shugendo faith.
Shiba-san lives in a small village in the mountains of Kumano, near the town of Hongu and Kawayu Hot Spring. His house and small workshop backs into a steep forested hillside.

The hats are made by hand, and he can make one or two per day. Each hat sells for about 5,000 Yen ($60). It’s not difficult to see why young people do not want to take up the profession.

Now 91, and slightly hard of hearing, Shiba-san still works each day. Many of his hats are bought by temples in Kyoto.
Shiba-san sits cross-legged in his workshop, deftly weaving the strands of cypress. He explains that cypress wood contains oils that make the hats very weatherproof – necessary with rains that frequent the area.

On his wall, a magnificent plaque is displayed, sent from the Imperial Household in Tokyo. It is his designation as a ‘Living National Treasure’, signifying his contribution to the traditional crafts of Japan.

It’s sad to think that when he passes away, so will his craft. Making these hats by hand cannot compete with cheap factory-made imports. And what will the priests of Kyoto do?

This is story often repeated across Japan. Few young people want to commit themselves to such a hard life for so little financial reward.

For the time-being, Shiba-san is happy to explain his craft, and obviously very proud of what he does.

Kumano Kodo video

admin — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 10:58:02 +0000

We have finished the first of our new series of videos about our tours and aspects of travelling in Japan. The first, an introduction to the Kumano Kodo trail, is now online.

Tenkawa-mura

admin — Wed, 02 Nov 2011 02:54:30 +0000

Tenkawa-mura – the river under heaven – is a village deep in the mountains of Nara prefecture. It’s south of Yoshino, and also is a staging post on the arduous Mount Omine pilgrimage.

Dorogawa hot spring

The village inludes Dorogawa Hot Spring, a classic Japanese hot spring village with a main street lined with hot spring ryokan. However, Tenkawa-mura is not just a hot spring village. It’s the start of the arduous mountain pilgrimage to Mount Omine.

Waraji sandals

From May to September each yeay, pilgrims gather here to pray, and fortify themselves before the trek through the mountains to the shrine on the top of Mount Omine.

Ryusenji temple

Around 1,300 years ago, En-no-gyoja undertook religious training for 1,000 days at Mount Omine, and founded the Shugendo faith, a syncretism of Buddhism, Chinese Taoism, and the native Shinto religion.
Shugendo can be translated as “path of training to achieve spiritual powers” and emphasis is put on physical endurance as the path to enlightenment. The area’s rugged and isolated mountains were ideal place for the demanding pilgrimages and training.

Ryusenji temple

Lay worshippers are to be found undertaking training such as standing under waterfalls, chanting.
This time of year the autumn colours arrive in Tenkawa-mura.

Momiji

In the nearby Benzaiten shrine (the Japanese name for the Hindu goddess Saraswati, and is also a god in the Shinto faith), a ‘mochi-zukuri’ festival was held last week. To the sound of beating drums and rhythmic singing, sticky cooked rice was pounded until it became a thick paste.

Mochizukuri

Benzaiten shrine

Tenkawa-mura also has the spectacular Miterai Gorge, a favourite for fly-fishing but also for its thundering waterfalls.

Miterai gorge

Paper making in Yoshino

admin — Fri, 14 Oct 2011 08:39:44 +0000

On a recent trip to Yoshino, a town in the south of Nara prefecture famous for its cherry blossoms, we managed to get to meet one of Japan’s ‘National Living Treasures’. Designated so because of their outstanding accomplishments in traditional arts and crafts, many are the from families that have carried on their profession down the generations.

We met Masayuki Fukunishi, who together with his father Hiroyuki Fukunishi (the National Living Treasure) run the Fukunishi Washi (Japanese paper) studio.

Fukunishi-san explained the process of making washi. From the growing of the plant, washing it, spreading out the pulp, and drying it using the old Yoshino method, on wooden boards.

His wife and mother process the fibres before the pulp is made.

Masayuki Fukunishi (the son) shows us the various types of washi his studio produces. It is of such high quality that it is used by the Imperial family.

Fukunishi-san welcomes visitors to his workshop, and has created a three-hour programme, with a demonstration of the paper-making process, and also the possibility to learn some Japanese caligraphy. You can write your name in Japanese ‘katakana’ characters, and take home the scroll which can be framed and put on your wall.

2011 photo competition winners

admin — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 14:15:00 +0000

We have chosen the winners for our 2011 photo competition.

First prize is of a geisha walking through the rain in Gion in Kyoto. This was taken by Anna-Catherine from Switzerland on the Shoguns and Samurai tour in May of 2008.

The first runner-up prize was also won by Anne-Catherine, for her photo of moss beside a path.

Kathryn from Australia was also a runner-up with her photo of a Japanese forest in the mountains of the Kii Peninsula, hiking the Kumano Kodo trail.

Three great photos from our trips! The 2012 photo competition is now running. If you have been on any of our trips and would like to enter, visit our competition page to views the rules. Good luck!

New shorter self-guided walking tours

admin — Mon, 12 Sep 2011 12:09:58 +0000

We have just launched new, shorter versions of our popular ‘self-guided walking’ trips.

We now offer 3, 4, 5 and 6-day versions of the Nakasendo, Kumano Kodo, and Nara & Asuka routes.

These shorter versions are for those who are organising their own travel to places such as Tokyo and Kyoto, but also wish to get ‘off-the-beaten-track’ during their stay and walk, but wish to have us to provide support for that part only.

We provide the same level of support, with stays at family-run inns in the small villages along these trails, detailed route guides and topographic maps, as our longer trips. We let you venture into some of Japan’s most evocative landscapes, and experience a level of personal service and warm hospitality that will make your trip in Japan one of the memorable trips you ever take.
Do get in touch if you have questions, we’ll be happy to share our experience of walking these trails!

Popular summer sweets in Japan

admin — Fri, 29 Jul 2011 15:42:21 +0000

A great way to enjoy summer in Japan is to indulge yourself with cold sweet snacks. We will introduce some popular summer sweets in Japan and where they can be enjoyed.

カキ氷 Kakigori

A very popular sweet for children and adults is the Kakigori (Japanese shaved ice). You can find very simple ones with only shaved ice covered in sweet fruit flavoured syrup, or topped with canned fruits. A large block of ice is turned on a machine which shaves off the ice as it turns.
In Kyoto, 茶寮ぎょくえん Saryo Gyokuen is the most popular place to get shaved ice, and theirs is truly unforgettable. The shaved ice is like cotton candy and melts instantly in your mouth leaving only sweetness behind.

茶寮ぎょくえん Saryo Gyokuen
Access: From Sanjo Station on Keihan Railway 2 minute walk from Exit 6
Open hours: 14:00 to 21:30
Closed: Every Thursday
Phone: 075-231-8353

餡蜜 Anmitsu

Anmitsu is a very popular Japanese sweet that can be enjoyed all year round but is eaten mostly during summer. It is like a Japanese Parfait made with small cubes of agar jelly, cold boiled peas and sweet bean paste. It’s also topped with fruit and sweet syrup right before eating.

Known for its Anmitsu is 銀座若松 Ginza Wakmatsu,
a dessert shop in Tokyo’s Ginza district with a history of over 100 years. It is said to be the founder of Anmitsu. Here you can try the traditional authentic Anmitsu . Its flavour remains unchanged over the past 80 years.

銀座若松 Ginza Wakmatsu
Access: 161 meters from Ginza Station
Open hours: 11:00 to 20:00
Open all year round
Phone: 03-3571-1672

冷やし飴 Hiyashi Ame

This is a popular summer drink in western Japan. It is made from mizu-ame, which is converted from starch to sugar. It has a very similar taste to corn syrup. This drink is chilled mizu-ame spiked with ginger.

A place I recommend if you want to try this is:
中村軒 Nakamuraken in Kyoto.
This is a well known Japanese sweet shop in Kyoto, with a long history of 120 years. I also recommend trying their seasonal sweets and shaved ice as well. During the summer, there is usually a long cue in front of the store.
What is amazing about this place is you can enjoy a chilled Hiyashi Ame drink in a huge jug for only 100 yen!

中村軒 Nakamuraken
Access: 15 minutes on foot from Katsura Station
Open hours: 09:30 to 17:45
Closed: Every wednesday
Phone: 075-381-2650

モナカアイス Monaka Ice

This is also known as modern Monaka, because traditionally Monaka is a Japanese sweet with 2 crispy wafers made from rice and is filled with sweet bean paste. The modern Monaka replaces the sweet bean paste with different flavoured ice cream (vanilla being the most popular). You can find Monaka in different shapes: some are in a form of a cherry blossom or chrysanthemum.

Very well known for their Ice Monaka is からさわ Karasawa. This is a café in Onomichi near Hiroshima. Many guide books will mention this café as a must visit. There is usually a cue in front of the store. There also do delivery within Japan.

からさわ Karasawa
Access: 15 minutes on foot from Onomichi Station
Open hours: 11:00 to 19:00
Closed: Every Tuesday
Phone: 0848-23-6804

ひやしメロンパン　Hiyashi Melon Pan
So far I introduced very traditional summer sweets in Japan, the last one is a new trend this year. I have a feeling this will continue to be very popular. Melon Pan is a sweet pastry that has a thin layer of crispy cookie dough. The look resembles a melon, and is usually melon flavoured but some places sell non-melon flavoured ones as well, such as chocolate, caramel. Donq, a well known bakery in Japan, sells these Hiyashi Melon Pan only during the summer. The bread is filled with rich cream which is creamier when is refrigerated. It is now becoming a popular breakfast choice in Japan.

This can only be purchased at:
ドンク Donq
This is sold from June 1st until August 31st.
This is a chain bakery with about 140 stores in Japan, so wherever you are in Japan there should be one nearby.

When in Japan why not try some these summer delicacies? I recommended some places that are well known in Japan but all of these can usually be enjoyed at local tea houses/cafes in Japan. Things like Ice Monaka or Anmitsu can also be purchased at convenient stores.