Takachiho in Miyazaki Prefecture. Takachiho is associated in Japan with the creation myths that are connected with the Japanese Imperial Family. According to these legends, the Imperial Family traces its roots back to the first recorded Emperor, Jimmu, who was born in Miyazaki, and set out on a voyage which eventually took him to Asuka near present-day Nara, where his burial mound now stands. For many Japanese, Miyazaki is the cradle of their civilisation, and you can find many sites throughout this part of eastern Kyushu that are associated with the myths. There seems to be some truth behind the legend of Jimmu’s voyage from Miyazaki, but Takachiho’s part is perhaps more difficult to prove. According to the Kojiki chronicles, Jimmu’s great-grandfather was the god Ninigi-no-mikoto, himself grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu-no-Omikami. Amaterasu is associated with Takachiho Gorge, in the famous Cave legend, where she went off to sulk in a cave after a prank by her brother. Being the sun-goddess, as she entered the cave the world was plunged into darkness. In order to tempt her out again and bring light back, another goddess named Uzume did a dance for the other gods outside the cave entrance. The curious Amaterasu peeped out and the cave door was shut quickly behind her.
The dance, known as Yokagura, are performed nightly at the Takachiho shrine in the town just above the gorge. They are a highly condensed version of dances that go on for several days and are traditionally played in local houses, and depict this and other stories from the creation legends. Although Takachiho is in a fairly remote part of northern Miyazaki Prefecture, the beautiful gorge and strange rock formations do attract some tourists. A path has been cut along the deep gorge, and you can also rent a small rowing boat to inspect the rocks up close.
Most people who make the trip to Takachiho do so as part of a longer trip in Kyushu. Takachiho is several hours drive south of Mount Aso in neighbouring Kumamoto Prefecture, and several hours north of Miyazaki city. There used to be a railway from Nobeoka on the coast but the line was damaged in a typhoon and hasn’t been repaired yet. Too bad, as it was apparently a spectacular ride.
It’s worth driving here, and taking some time to see te beautiful Miyazaki countryside.
We visit Takachiho on the Land of Fire tour.
