Nyuto Hot Spring, in the Akita Prefecture. Akita is in the north of the main island of Honshu, and the winters here are long and the snow is deep. Located just north of the lake of Tazakawa-ko, in the shadow of Mount Akita-komagatake, Nyuto Hot Spring is a small collection of hot spring ryokan, famed for its milky-white waters.
Its the quintessential rural hot spring. For over 400 years the Tsuru-no-yu ryokan has been a place of rest and rejuvenation, and was in times past used by the feudal lord. Today there are 8 separate baths, bath inside and outside. Most rooms have their inside irori, a traditional sunken hearth. In the evening the staff bring around hot charcoal to put in the irori, and the rooms become very warm and cosy. Even though Tsuru-no-yu is the most famous of the Nyuto Hot Spring ryokans, it sits at the end of a dirt road, wonderfully remote and surrounded by trees. It’s in the Towada-Hachimantai National Park, and hiking trails lead off directly from the ryokan. You can enjoy a full day of walking and return in the evening to soak your tired muscles in the soothing water.
Even if you have been to many hot springs in Japan, this is something special. There are baths for both men and women, and one which is mixed. The milky-white water leaves your skin beautifully smooth, so it’s best not to wash it off after bathing. Another nearby ryokan is Kuro-no-yu. This has 6 baths and the ryokan building is thatched. Again, it’s a wonderfully remote setting, surrounded by a forest of beech.
We visit Nyuto Hot Spring on the Mountain Spirits tour.




